How to read and verify a Japanese car auction sheet

A grade of 4.5 can look reassuring. But it will not tell you which panels need attention or how much work the car needs before resale. Those answers come from reading the full Japanese auction sheet.

This guide walks you through the grades, damage codes and inspector’s comments, then explains how to check the sheet against the original record. The aim is to help you decide whether a car fits your stock requirements and what to allow for before bidding.

Start with the lot and vehicle details

Start with the full Japanese sheet, the listing photos and a translation. When asking about a lot, give your auction partner the venue, date and lot number. A lot number alone may refer to a different sale.

Check these details against the listing:

• Model
• Chassis number
• Stated registration date
• Mileage
• Transmission
• Colour
• Equipment

Japanese domestic vehicles may have a chassis number rather than a 17-character VIN. Match the full number, including its prefix and digits.

First registration and manufacture are different dates. If the production month or year matters for your purchase, ask for confirmation; the registration field alone does not prove when the car was built.

Check the notes next to the mileage, too. The sheet may show an odometer reading while also recording a replacement meter or uncertainty about the distance travelled. Ask your auction partner what any unfamiliar notation means.

Understand the overall auction grade

An auction grade gives you a quick overview of condition. It helps you shortlist cars, but the grading rules vary between operators. Use the table as a starting point and check the rules for the auction you are buying from.

Grade	Broad reading
4.5	Minor defects; limited preparation may be needed.
4	Visible defects requiring repair.
3.5	Larger defects needing repair or replacement.
3	Major defects; mechanical problems may be present.
R	Repair history.
RA	Lighter repair history at venues using this classification.

A 4.5 car can still need paintwork. A grade 4 car may be a good fit if the repair costs leave enough margin. With grades 3 or 3.5, find out which issues are cosmetic and which could affect how the car runs before setting your budget.

For R and RA, read the repair description carefully. RA does not by itself prove that the repair was minor, and a numeric grade does not rule out all previous repairs. Ask which parts were affected and what supporting information is available.

Read interior and exterior grades separately

Some sheets also give letter grades for the cabin and exterior. Check the labels: auction houses do not all use the same layout. A letter in a grade box means something different from the same letter on the damage map.

Grade	Interior	Exterior
A	Minor flaws	Minor flaws or repair traces
B	Several minor defects	Noticeable defects
C	Defects needing minor repair	Several noticeable defects or repairs needing attention
D	Noticeable defects needing repair	Numerous large defects or corrosion
E	Poor condition; major parts may need replacement	Severe defects requiring replacement

These descriptions summarise TAA’s grading definitions. Other auctions may use different criteria. A B interior grade does not promise spotless seats, and an A exterior grade does not necessarily mean original paint throughout. Check the notes before describing the car to a customer.

If the notes mention cabin wear or damage, request photos of the affected areas. Odours and some equipment faults will not show in pictures, so ask about them directly.

Read the exterior grade alongside the body map. Location matters: a scuffed bumper and corrosion near a structural area need different checks and may lead to very different repair costs.

Use the damage map to locate the defects

The outline of the car shows where the inspector recorded damage. These are common Japanese auction sheet symbols; check the auction’s own legend before using them to assess a lot.

Code	Common meaning
A	Scratch
U	Dent
B	Dent with scratches
W	Visible repair traces or waviness
S	Rust
C	Corrosion
P	Paint deterioration or repainting needed
X	Replacement required
XX	Panel already replaced

A number beside a code usually indicates the size or severity of the defect. A1, A2 and U2 do not have one universal measurement in centimetres. Check the auction’s definitions and request close-up photos to see what work is needed.

Use the marks to guide your questions. For W, ask for a closer view of the repair. For XX, check which panel was replaced and read the repair notes. For S or C, find out where the rust or corrosion is and how far it extends.

Translate the inspector notes before approving a bid

Ask for a translation of each finding, rather than a broad summary such as “normal wear”. You need enough detail to estimate repairs and explain the car’s condition to your customer.

Where the sheet separates the seller’s declarations from the inspector’s findings, keep that distinction in the translation. Ask the translator to flag unclear handwriting or abbreviations so you know what still needs checking.

Compare the translated notes with the photos and damage map. If a problem is mentioned but not shown, ask for a photo of that area. If the translation and diagram do not agree, get an explanation before setting your final bid.

Japanese wording	English meaning	Follow-up before bidding
内装汚れ	Interior dirt or soiling	Request cabin photos and assess cleaning work.
シートシミ	Seat stains	Request close-ups; allow for cleaning or trim work.
下回りサビ	Underbody rust	Request underside photos to establish its extent.
修復歴あり	Repair history present	Identify the affected components and repair details.
走行距離不明	Mileage unknown	Treat the displayed reading as unverified.
水没	Submersion or flood damage	Clarify the recorded history before considering purchase.

These vocabulary examples can help you follow a translation. Spellings vary: 下回り may appear as 下廻り, while rust may be written as サビ or 錆. Read the full phrase to understand where the problem is.

For example, “underbody rust” tells you what to check next. It does not tell you how serious the rust is. Photos or an inspection are needed before you can judge its extent.

Verify the sheet against the original auction record

Reading a sheet tells you what it says about the car. Verification helps you confirm that it belongs to the right lot and matches the record held by the auction. Before approving a bid, work through these checks:

1. Match the vehicle and sale. Check the auction venue, sale date and lot number, then match the complete chassis number to the listing. A lot number alone does not identify a vehicle across different sales.
2. Request the original auction record. Ask your auction member or export partner to retrieve the sheet from the relevant auction source. Another copy of the image you already have does not provide an independent check.
3. Compare the two versions. Look for differences in:
   • Vehicle and lot details.
   • Overall, interior and exterior grades.
   • Mileage and any mileage qualifications.
   • Damage-map markings.
   • Inspector’s comments and seller declarations.
4. Check for updates. Ask whether the auction has issued an amended sheet or an additional condition notice. Make sure you are using the latest information available before bidding.
5. Clarify any differences. If information is missing or the versions do not match, request an explanation before setting your final bid. Save the original record, translation and follow-up answers together.

Earlier auction records can also help you compare mileage and reported condition over time. Check their dates carefully: an older sheet describes an earlier inspection and cannot confirm the car’s current condition.

Cropped identifiers or unreadable comments are reasons to request a clearer original, but they do not by themselves prove that a sheet has been altered. If the original record cannot be retrieved, ask why and decide whether the remaining evidence is enough to proceed.

A practical example: what to check before bidding

Suppose a car has an overall grade of 4.5, but its damage map includes the entries below. The grade makes it worth considering; the individual findings help you estimate preparation costs and decide what needs a closer look.

Finding on the sheet	Why it matters	What to ask before bidding
A1 on the front bumper	The scratch may need polishing or paintwork, which adds to preparation costs.	Request a close-up showing the scratch clearly. Check whether the paint is damaged and what work is likely to be needed.
U2 on a door	The repair method depends on the dent’s position and whether the paint is intact.	Ask for photos from different angles. Check whether the dent affects a crease or panel edge and whether repainting may be needed.
XX on a front wing	The wing has been replaced. The mark alone does not explain why or establish the extent of the damage.	Ask why it was replaced, read the repair-history notes and clarify whether adjacent components were affected.

This is an illustrative example, not a report for a specific vehicle. Code severity depends on the auction’s definitions.

Once the findings are clear, allow for the expected work in your bid limit. If the repair history or condition remains uncertain, request further evidence before committing to the lot.

Know when an additional inspection is needed

An auction sheet cannot answer every mechanical question. TAA’s rules describe visual checks and simple operations while the car is stationary. Faults that require dismantling or a road test rely on seller declarations, so you may need additional checks before buying.

Consider an additional inspection when:

• The repair notes leave important questions unanswered.
• Rust or corrosion could change your decision to buy.
• The mileage needs further explanation.
• An unresolved fault could be costly on a high-value car.

Be specific about what you need: underside photos, for example, or a check of a reported operating fault.

Check what the inspection can cover and whether the results will arrive before bidding closes. If an important question remains unanswered, passing on the lot may be the better buying decision.

Use the findings in your dealer buying process

Keep the original sheet, translation and answers together in the purchase file. Note any open questions and factor preparation costs into your bid limit. Your sales team can then use the same information when describing the car after arrival.

You can use SUMOTORI Auto’s Japanese car auction platform to search for vehicles and access auction sheet translations. Build your shortlist, then discuss the lots and any unanswered questions with the team before bidding.

For an overview of buying and export support, see SUMOTORI’s services for dealers.

Frequently asked questions

Does grade 4 mean a car has never been repaired?

No. Check the repair notes and damage map, and ask how the auction defines the grade. The number alone does not prove that the car has never been repaired.

Does XX automatically mean structural accident damage?

XX commonly marks a replaced panel. Check which panel it refers to and read the repair-history assessment before drawing a conclusion about structural damage.

Can an auction sheet confirm that a car is ready for registration abroad?

No. The sheet helps you assess condition. You still need to check the import and registration requirements for the market where you will sell the car.